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[Colyn]

As many of you know I am seriously interested in buying a bike that I can do some of the gravel roads in my part of the world and maybe some other parts too

Recently someone here posted a link to a Ride Report done by a guy in the US ... he did a long run on a R 1200 R and I was surprised by the roads he had travelled. What impressed me more is that guy previously owned a 1200 GS.

Now I don't like the R 1200 GS/A because they are too high for me. A KTM is too high too and the new F650's from BMW is too high too. I will wait for the F800GS but I am sure it is going to be the same ... on the other hand the R 1200 R is perfect for me.

Now what I would like to know is what would be really "needed" to be modified on the R 1200 R in order to have a fairly decent Gravel Tourer ?

Remember ... I am a Tar Rider ... I own a K1200 GT and K1200 LT ... so try and imagine my frame of mind and my point of reference.

[Colyn]

Hmmm hoekom nie ... hier is die link wat my aan die ding laat dink het.

http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=11564

[Captain Slow]

Jy weet wat ek gaan sê.

[Colyn]

Wat julle moet probeer verstaan om te sien waar ek vandaan kom is dat ek in die Laeveld bly. Daar is a moerse distance van lang reguit teerpaaie tussen my en die mooi passe in die Kaap. Ek moet oor daai flatlands kom ... meeste DS bikes gaan crap wees vir my ... onthou ek love my LT en hy vreet daai soort paaie vir brekfis

Ek sal nie iets soos die Angolo trip van Michinus kan doen nie maar ek sal sekerlik meeste van die passe in die Kaap kan doen en groot dele van Suidwes kan ry. Surely sal ek stadiger as die tawwe DS manne wees maar watwou ... ek laaik mos van fotos so die spoed is nie a probleem nie.

Wat ek graag uit die community wil kry is tips en voorstelle in hoe om a paar klein dingetjies te doen om die R 1200 R meer GRONPAD vriendelik te kry

[Colyn]

add a bashplate - a serious one that will protect that pipe

if possible get the pipe a little higher

the suspension travel ain't great - pump it up somehow or consider a suspension upgrade

consider a 19" front wheel, though that will affect the feel of the bike, and by that point, you may as well have bought the GS

Thank you ... yep we looked long and hard at the front wheel ... unfortunately with the duo-lever that distance between the mudguard and axle centers cannot change so making the wheel bigger is not a real option. I do agree and accept that the wheel is a bit small.

I also dont want to go onto a mission of actually rebuilding major components ... then I may as well by a GS from the start.

I am thinking of getting rid of the CAT on the bike and that should give some room at the bottom.

[Colyn]

Dit lyk baie lekker vir my ...

[Colyn]

Jy weet wat ek gaan sê.

Ja ek weet ... maar moenie ... dink liewers mooi oor wat ek voortel en kom ons kyk waar kom ons uit

[TC]

Jy weet wat ek gaan sê.

Wat?

[Captain Slow]

Wat?

Dis 'n k*k idee... hehe

[Captain Slow]

Ja ek weet ... maar moenie ... dink liewers mooi oor wat ek voortel en kom ons kyk waar kom ons uit

Sal later my kant van die saak stel. Moet nou eers werk.

[Colyn]

Wel TC het ook a bike wat nie meer heeltemal DS is nie en ek is seker hy sal baie hier kan bydra.

[Captain Slow]

Okay I’ll state my view….

I’m no gravel riding expert, in fact my gravel riding sucks, but I’ve got some experience on the matter. I did about 3000km gravel the last 10 months. This includes, normal gravel highways, 2 spoor tracks, sand, mud, rivers and donkey sh*t.

One of the things I like doing is looking at and riding different bikes. In the last ten months I’ve looked at many dual bikes and has formulated the perfect theoretical dual motorcycle.

When one goes dual riding you will be looking for the following:

1.   Soft and long suspension travel.
2.   The wheels must be as big as possible and not to fat.
3.   Front wheel should be narrow.
4.   Motor must develop lots of low down torque, but must still rev smooth.                     No need to rev at 10 000 RPM.
5.   Handle bars should be high and wide.
6.   Ergenomics of the bike should permit standing while riding.
7.   Gear lever should accommodate MX boots.
8.   Air intake should be mounted as high as possible for river crossings.
9.   If water is drawn into engine it should be easy to restart engine.
10.   Electronics should be able to operate in deep water.
11.   Fuel range should be more than 400km even if you ride in 1st gear all day.
12.   Should be able to ride in first gear all day without over heating.
13.   Should have a low first gear and the gap between 1st and 2nd should not be to big.
14.   Gear ratio should be low. 200km/h means nothing on gravel.
15.   Should be able to transport lots of lugguage.
16.   Should have a comfortable seat.
17.   The engine and vital components shoud have some bash and crash protection.

The problem with dual motor cycles just like road motor cycles is that the bike needs to inspire confidence in the rider. If your dual bike is not set up correctly or does not have the correct specifications it will scare the living daylights out of you. It will feel like you are riding on ice. I know, I’ve had the feeling. If seen it many times, in the middle of a ride a rider will stop and fiddle with suspension settings or tire pressures because he is not comfortable.

As for the R1200R… I’m sure if you look at my “Perfect bike” summery at the top it is quite lacking. Not that I’m saying it will not inspire confidence, but according to my gravel riding theory it looks like a waste of time.

So far I’ve talked about normal gravel roads.

On extreme stuff the story changes a bit. Hitting South African pot holes and erosion trenches could be fatal with the R1200R. Pot holes and erosion trenches are found on some of the best gravel roads I’ve ridden. I’ve hit pot holes at 80km/h that bottoms out my front and rear suspension. Traction is also a problem. Some good gravel roads are covered in “sink plaat”. Try riding a bike with road suspension on sink plaat you will loose speed quickly. Once again vibration will be a problem on a R1200R.

I can go on talking about this topic for days.

[Colyn]

Thank you.

[Captain Slow]

Confidence on gravel roads?

Bike should be stable at high speeds. 120km/h on gravel highways are easily achievable.
Bike should not run wide in corners. If this happens the rider will be really slow.
If the power is put down the bike should find traction even on bumpy roads.

[Captain Slow]

Its all about confidence and then skill...

Colyn as jy alleen wil gaan ry sal die R1200R seker vir jou werk, maar sodra jy saam met ander ouens ry met GSs, KLRs of KTMs gaan jy sien waar die verskil is.